This is not the first, and certainly not the last, Velvet Moon grow of my life that I am sharing here, guiding you step by step through the entire growth cycle. Velvet Moon is a Green House Seeds strain, its genetics Dosidos × Holy Punch, with 60% indica and 40% sativa dominance, available as a cannabis clone thanks to Grow Island.
I started this grow out of curiosity, since according to the descriptions it is a vigorous, medium-stretching hybrid that after 8–9 weeks of flowering produces abundant yields and has already proven itself for me multiple times! (This time I opened a new pack of seeds, since several breeders do not have stable genetics—Velvet Moon only has 2 phenotypes!) The THC content is ~28%, giving it serious potential, while its flavor profile is a unique blend of fruity-sweet and earthy-citrus aromas; phenotype B even gives off a cat-pee scent. In this blog post I’ll describe my own experiences diary-style, in a direct tone—from germination to the end of the curing process—covering the techniques I used, tips, difficulties and lessons learned. Let’s start at the very beginning: germination!
Germination
Everything starts with a good seed. I soaked my feminized Velvet Moon seeds in lukewarm water for 6 hours to soften the hard seed shell (this helps water penetration and germination). After that, I used the paper towel method: I placed the seeds between two moist paper towels inside a plastic bag, then put the bag in a dark place at about 22–24°C. It is important that the environment stays warm and humid, protected from drafts, since even a slight cold airflow or sudden temperature fluctuation can inhibit germination. Within 2 days the seeds had sprouted their first white roots—an amazing joy to see those tiny radicles appear.
During germination, I handled the seeds with great care: I didn’t press or squeeze them, only gently checked each day to see if sprouting had begun. Overhandling or damaging the root is a common beginner’s mistake, so I tried to remain patient. In the end, both seeds sprouted—2 out of 2—which means a 100% germination rate. I attribute this partly to the fact that the seeds were healthy and mature, with a dark brown color (immature white seeds are often non-viable).
Once the taproot reached about 1 cm in length, I carefully transplanted the sprouts into small plastic pots filled with a prepared loose soil mix. I tried to minimize transplant shock—moistening the medium beforehand and covering the root very gently with soil to avoid breakage. From here, the seedling stage began.
Seedling stage
During the seedling stage the freshly sprouted Velvet Moon shoots began their life under high humidity. Once they broke through the soil, I moved them into a 90×90 cm grow tent. At first I gave them continuous light (24 hours) using a weak 180W 5500K lamp, then after a few days switched to an 18/6 light cycle (18 hours light, 6 hours dark). Personally I like to give plants a “rest period” at night. (I know some growers run seedlings 24h, expecting faster growth, but based on my experience, the 18/6 cycle gives more balanced development.)
The small Velvet Moon seedlings, only a few centimeters tall, were already bursting with vigor. After the first two true leaf pairs appeared, it became clear that this was an indica-dominant hybrid: characterized by compact, thick cotyledons and broader first leaves. I paid close attention to watering: since the seedlings’ roots were still tiny, I only kept the soil surface moist with a spray bottle, avoiding standing water. Overwatering at the seedling stage can be fatal, so I always waited until the top ~1 cm of the medium felt dry to the touch before giving water again. In addition, I maintained humidity around 65–70%—the high humidity helps prevent the little plant from drying out too quickly and keeps the rooting medium evenly moist.
During the first two weeks, I didn’t provide any nutrient solution, as the seedling soil contained sufficient nutrition. However, I applied a small amount of root stimulator (mycorrhizal fungus granules near the roots and a weekly watering with seaweed extract) to encourage strong root development. I tried to keep the temperature between 24–26°C during the day, and it never dropped below 20°C at night—the constant warmth supported rapid growth. I also provided gentle air circulation with a small fan that didn’t blow directly on the seedlings, but simply moved the air. This prevented fungal issues, and the slight movement strengthened their stems. Indeed, by moving the seedlings slightly a few times a day (to mimic natural wind), they developed thicker, stronger stems, which later made the plants more stable.
Relevant observation: the Velvet Moon seedlings were very vigorous. Both started growing quickly, and I didn’t notice any “stretching” (when the stem becomes too long and thin due to lack of light)—I kept the LED lamp about 25 cm above them, providing just enough light so they didn’t need to elongate toward it. After about 10–12 days, the plants already had 3–4 sets of true leaves, reached ~8–10 cm in height, and began outgrowing their small pots, their “cradles.” At that point, I knew it was time to transplant them into larger containers and enter the vegetative growth phase.
My Velvet Moon seedling at ~3 weeks old. By this stage, it was clear that the plant had outgrown the seedling phase—the roots had completely filled the small pot, and it was time to transplant into a larger container. The leaves were a healthy green, slightly “plate-shaped,” a clear sign of its indica heritage. The thick stem was also noticeable, thanks to early ventilation and the strength of the genetics.
Vegetative Stage
At the beginning of the vegetative stage, I transplanted the plants into 3-liter fabric pots (air-pot style bags). During the transplant, I was careful not to damage the root ball—the seedlings’ roots had nicely filled the small cups, so I gently placed them into the new medium. The fresh soil mix consisted of lightly fertilized general potting soil and perlite, which kept the substrate loose and provided a good water-to-air ratio for the roots. Watering: I first soaked the new pots thoroughly, then let them drain. For each following watering, I always waited until the pots felt noticeably light—this way, the roots were encouraged to “seek out” water and grow throughout the entire medium.
During this stage, my plants required daily attention. I switched to a stronger light: a 450W LED panel (a full-spectrum model suitable for both veg and bloom). I placed the lamp about 40 cm above the plants and ran it on an 18/6 light cycle (18 hours on, 6 hours off). The growth of Velvet Moon was vigorous and fast—the strain’s description proved to be true, as it grew with strong energy and developed many side branches. By the 3rd–4th week, the lateral shoots were pushing upwards, nearly reaching the top of the main stem. At this point, I decided it was time to initiate flowering.
From the 4th week onward, I began training the girls with LST: gently bending down the main branches and securing them sideways with soft wire ties. With this low stress training method, the inner and lower shoots received more light, and the plant took on a flatter, wider shape. Velvet Moon tolerated this technique with ease—the branches didn’t break and quickly “set” into their new position. Thanks to the strong genetics, the stems remained thick and stable—one of this strain’s advantages is its ability to develop solid side branches that can support heavy flowers all the way to harvest without additional stakes or netting. I personally experienced this: even in the later flowering stage I never had to stake or trellis the Velvet Moon, as it held its own weight effortlessly.
During the vegetative phase, I gradually increased the nutrient dosage. From the 3rd week, I introduced a vegetative nutrient solution with a higher nitrogen ratio (N:P:K around 3:1:2). Starting at half the recommended dose, the plants tolerated it well, and by the 6th–7th week I reached full strength. I also monitored the pH levels: watering with ~6.3–6.5 pH in soil to ensure optimal nutrient uptake. Once a week, I flushed with plain water to prevent salt buildup in the medium. Daytime temperatures stayed around 25–28°C, while nighttime dropped to 18–20°C. I maintained relative humidity at ~60% early in veg, then lowered it to ~50% as the plants grew larger to prevent fungal issues. A 15 cm oscillating fan ran constantly in the tent, ensuring fresh airflow and gently moving the leaves. The plants clearly loved the breeze—they developed strong, thick trunks and lush, healthy green foliage.
Of course, a few minor issues cropped up, from which I learned. In the 6th week, I noticed yellowing on the lower leaves of one plant—likely a sign of nitrogen deficiency. The Velvet Moon seemed to be growing faster than I was feeding, so I increased the nutrient dose slightly. Within a few days, new growth appeared healthy green again, and the yellowing didn’t spread. Another small challenge: fungus gnats appeared on the soil surface due to frequent watering. To combat them, I let the topsoil dry out more between waterings and placed sticky yellow traps, which quickly reduced the population. Fortunately, no serious pests or diseases emerged—likely thanks to good ventilation and my attention to gardening hygiene (clean tools, avoiding bringing in bugs from outdoor plants).
All in all, the vegetative stage lasted about 8 weeks. During this time, the two Velvet Moon plants grew into ~50 cm tall, bushy little “monsters,” full of healthy shoots. By then I was already looking forward to the harvest, but I knew the hardest and most exciting part was yet to come: flowering, the most critical phase of cannabis cultivation.
Flowering
Once my plants reached the size I wanted (about half a meter tall and wide enough to fill out the grow space), I switched them to a 12/12 light cycle to induce flowering. By the end of the vegetative stage, I had already noticed tiny pre-flowers forming at the nodes—small pistils confirming that both were indeed female (expected from feminized seeds, but still reassuring to see). After the switch to 12/12, the Velvet Moons began stretching: the stretch phase increased their height by about 1.5× during the first two weeks. This is considered a moderate stretch, just as the strain description had predicted. I was relieved they still fit comfortably in the tent, safely distanced from the light—excessive stretching could have caused height issues, but here it was perfectly manageable.
At the start of flowering, I transitioned to a bloom nutrient formula, with higher phosphorus and potassium levels and reduced nitrogen to support bud development. The first buds appeared by the 2nd–3rd week—tiny green “balls” with white pistil hairs. From that point onward, the transformation became more dramatic week by week. By the 4th week, the buds had begun swelling, forming continuous clusters along the ends of the branches. At this stage, I added a second side-mounted LED for supplementary lighting, ensuring that even the lower flowers received extra exposure—my way of maximizing yields. I also boosted ventilation in the tent: I increased the extractor fan to a higher setting and hung a small PC fan in the canopy to move air through the dense foliage.
This was necessary because as the flowers fattened, I had to lower the humidity to around 45–50% to prevent mold from developing inside the dense buds where moisture could get trapped. Thick, compact colas are especially prone to botrytis (bud rot), particularly in the large top colas, if humidity is too high. I inspected the flowers daily: gently pulling apart the tops to check for any suspicious gray patches or musty smells. Fortunately, good airflow and a carefully controlled climate paid off—no mold or pests appeared during flowering.
By the 6th–7th week, the buds had already reached their final shape: beautiful, egg-shaped, dense flowers lined the branches. Velvet Moon was truly stunning to behold: the buds were compact and rounded, with massive floral structures thanks to the Holy Punch genetics, combined with the incredible resin production inherited from Dosidos—the buds literally sparkled with trichomes, as if dusted with powdered sugar. The foliage colors were equally impressive: alongside the deep green appeared subtle purple hues on the upper sugar leaves, especially after cooler nighttime temperatures. I attribute this partly to the genetics—the Dosidos parent is well-known for its lime-green and lavender-purple leaves, and the hybrid clearly inherited this beauty.
Every time I opened the tent, I was hit by the intoxicating aroma: a powerful blend of sweet, fruity notes (like fresh forest berries) layered with a citrusy, earthy, peppery undertone. The strain description also mentions a pungent fruit scent mixed with sour lemon-earthy notes—and that’s exactly what I experienced. Needless to say, the filter had to work overtime: the inline carbon filter in the ventilation system was running constantly, otherwise the smell would have filled the whole house. By the end of flowering, that sweet, skunky fragrance was unmistakable.
During flowering, I did my best to keep the climate under control. Daytime temperatures stayed around 25–27°C, dropping to about 18°C at night (which likely contributed to the purple tinting of the leaves). Humidity, as mentioned, stayed consistently below 50%. One crucial detail: the dark period must always be completely dark. I ensured absolute darkness, since even minor light leaks can disrupt flowering hormones and potentially cause setbacks or hermaphroditic flowers. I covered every tiny LED and restricted tent openings strictly to the plant’s “daytime” cycle.
By the end of week 7, I began checking the trichomes under a magnifier: the tiny resin glands were turning increasingly cloudy (milky), with some starting to show amber heads. This was the clear sign that harvest time was approaching. About 70–80% of the pistils had darkened and curled back into the buds. I decided to harvest at the end of week 8 / beginning of week 9, aiming for a high that’s still potent and uplifting, rather than waiting longer—since more amber trichomes would shift the effect toward heavier, more sedative.
As the final step, I flushed the medium: during the last week, the plants received only pH-adjusted pure water, allowing the accumulated nutrients to be used up so no fertilizer taste would interfere with the final flavor. The yellowing of the larger fan leaves accelerated at this point—perfectly normal, as the plant directs its last energy reserves into the buds and pulls nitrogen out of the leaves.
Harvest time had arrived!
A Velvet Moon top cola shortly before harvest. You can see how dense and resinous the flowers are – the leaves sparkle with white crystals, and the pistils have mostly turned brown. The purple hues appearing on the leaves are thanks to cooler nights and the Dosidos genetics. These dense buds truly become “rock-hard” once dried, which means an excellent flower-to-leaf ratio and easier trimming.
Harvest
In the beginning of week 9, on a quiet morning (I always harvest during the dark cycle, just before “lights on,” when the terpenes are at their peak), I began the harvest. I was well prepared: sharp pruning shears, gloves, drying racks, and labels to mark the plants. First, I removed the larger fan leaves—mostly yellowed at this stage—either by hand or with scissors. Then I cut the plants at the main stem. I chose to hang the whole plants upside down because this slows down the drying process and improves quality (the large leaves and stems still hold moisture, which extends the dry). I strung them on a small clothesline in the ventilated cabinet.
Trimming was kept very basic at this stage – I only removed some of the bigger sugar leaves. The fine trimming I left for after drying. Even then, my gloves quickly became sticky with resin – this strain is insanely frosty, the Velvet Moon buds glittered with trichomes. The “scissor hash” stuck to my hands and scissors smelled so intensely sweet and spicy that it was hard to resist a taste (though I waited until after curing, of course). I didn’t weigh the wet harvest, but I was eager to see the dry yield. The seedbank’s estimate is 350–500 g/m² indoors, under ideal conditions. Since I had two plants in 11-liter pots, my personal goal was at least ~200 g of top-quality dry buds.
I let the hanging plants dry in a dark room at ~20°C with 50% humidity. It’s crucial to avoid heat, cold, and light exposure, since light degrades cannabinoids. A small fan provided gentle air circulation, but never blew directly on the buds (strong airflow can cause them to dry too fast or collect dust). I checked the drying progress daily: gently feeling the buds (whether they felt dry on the outside) and bending the branches (whether they still flexed or snapped). After about 10 days, the thicker branches snapped cleanly when bent – the sign that the buds had reached the proper dryness. During the whole process, I carefully monitored for mold: twice a day, I inspected each hanging branch for any fuzzy patches. Fortunately, the careful ventilation paid off – no mold appeared and everything dried perfectly.
Once drying had reached the right point, I trimmed the buds off the branches. It was a time-consuming job, but with Velvet Moon it was less painful than with other strains, since the flower-to-leaf ratio is excellent – the compact, rock-hard buds carry very few leaves, so trimming went relatively quickly. The result was stunning: even when dry, the buds were solid and resin-covered, glittering under the light. After trimming I weighed the dry yield: in total, I harvested much grams of top-quality Velvet Moon (from two plants combined). That works out to ~1.9 g/W under my 450W light, which I was very satisfied with as a hobby grower. From what I’ve read in grow journals, many growers reported ~100–150 g per plant with this strain – so my yield was above that average, which felt like a strong and realistic result for plants of this size.
Drying & Curing
Of course, the work doesn’t end with harvest – the following weeks are just as crucial for the final quality. The freshly trimmed, dry-to-the-touch buds went into glass jars for the curing process. I placed a hygrometer in each jar, which initially showed ~60% RH. During the first week, I “burped” the jars daily: opening them for about 10–15 minutes to let in fresh air, then sealing them again. This allowed any remaining inner moisture to escape evenly, while still being slow enough for the chemical curing inside the flowers to take place. On the first few days I noticed the buds felt slightly moist again after opening – which made regular airing out especially important to avoid mold. By day 5 the moisture stabilized around 58–62% inside the jars. From then on, I reduced the burping: every two days during the second week, then just once or twice a week from week three onwards. I had planned for a minimum 4-week cure, but in the end I let the buds “mature” for 6 full weeks – every extra week only improves flavor and effect.
During curing, the initial slightly “hay-like” chlorophyll smell slowly faded, and the true aroma began to develop. Around week 3 opening the jars released a fantastic scent: like a basket of fresh berries in the middle of a pine forest – sweet and fruity, yet earthy and citrusy at the same time. The strain truly delivered on its promise: Holy Punch’s sweet bouquet blending with the earthy-citrus notes of Dosidos. The smoke (at least after the first test run) was creamy-smooth, with a spicy-sweet exhale – an absolutely unique experience.
Preventing mold during curing remained a priority: even though the buds seemed dry, I paid close attention during the first 1–2 weeks to catch any signs of mustiness. The jars were stored in a cool, dark place, and every time I opened them, I took a deep smell – a musty odor would have been obvious right away. Luckily, nothing of the sort appeared, thanks to the patient drying and careful curing. From time to time, I also gently moved the jar contents around (lightly shaking with the lid closed) so the buds wouldn’t stick together. After 6 weeks, the humidity inside the jars had stabilized around 55%, at which point I barely opened them anymore – the cure was finished, and the Velvet Moon was ready to enjoy.
Closing Thoughts & Lessons Learned
Now that the Velvet Moon buds are safely sealed in jars waiting to be enjoyed, I can say without hesitation that this was a fantastic strain to grow. Throughout the entire cycle, Velvet Moon lived up to its reputation: vigorous growth, forgiving nature, and relatively easy to manage without being overly sensitive to small mistakes.
Would I recommend it for beginners? Partly yes. Because the buds are so dense and compact, humidity and airflow must be carefully controlled to avoid mold issues. But in terms of feeding, it’s not a demanding plant—under a normal nutrient schedule it thrives, and thanks to its moderate stretch, it remains manageable even in smaller grow spaces. Anyone who has grown a photoperiod strain before will find Velvet Moon no harder than average. For beginners, I’d stress the importance of a good carbon filter (its flowering aroma is very strong!) and avoiding overcrowding—better to grow fewer plants and spread them out well (for example, with a SCROG net), since Velvet Moon develops strong side branches and fills space beautifully with proper training.
The quality of the harvest is truly impressive: the flowers carry a perfume-like complexity in both aroma and flavor, and the effects are a perfect balance for me personally. From the first few puffs, a head-rushing euphoria hits, bringing creativity and laughter. Just as the strain description says, it “hits the head fast within the first few minutes.” After about 10–15 minutes, this powerful high gently melts into a deep, full-body relaxation that lasts for hours. At the end of a long day, that effect is pure gold: first uplifting, then soothing. I also noticed that smaller doses during the day work well too—I don’t feel too spaced out, just in a really good mood. For evenings, however, it’s the perfect wind-down smoke.
Summary: Growing Velvet Moon taught me a lot about fine-tuning plant care and responding to their needs. I learned firsthand how crucial patience is (especially during curing), and how the attention you give your plants is rewarded many times over. I see this grow as a success not because of yield size, but because of the top-quality buds I produced: aromatic, potent, and full of character. There’s something truly special about rolling a joint with your own harvest—you know exactly where it came from, what went into it, and it carries the fruit of your work. With Velvet Moon, that “fruit” is literally fruity and sweet.
Recommendation: If you’re wondering whether to give this strain a try, I can wholeheartedly encourage you to go for it. Velvet Moon isn’t just “velvety” in name—growing it was truly a smooth and drama-free experience. Of course, some basic knowledge of cannabis growth stages (germination, seedling care, nutrients, pH, etc.) is always helpful, but that applies to any strain. With Velvet Moon specifically, pay attention to proper pruning and training—it responds beautifully and develops a much better structure as a result. Toward the end of flowering, keep an eye on airflow and humidity for the reasons mentioned earlier. The reward will be gorgeous, compact, resin-covered buds with flavor and potency you’ll remember for a long time. Personally, I was so impressed that I’m planning to run this strain again, and maybe even try it outdoors next time (though harvesting in early October outdoors can bring cool, humid conditions that pose risks for such dense buds). Indoors, however, Velvet Moon has definitely become a new favorite.
In the end, there are few better feelings than sitting back after a long day, holding a flower you’ve grown yourself, admiring its color and aroma, and then lighting it up to experience that blissful, relaxed “velvet” sensation it delivers. For that moment alone, every ounce of effort was worth it. I hope my grow journal has been useful and inspiring for you. Wishing you happy gardening and mold-free drying!
0 comments